Enjoy that showroom shine, all year long! You'll be turning heads soon enough.
(Prices vary based on vehicle's paint status)
What's included?
Note: Primarily for gloss enhancement. See 2-Step Paint Correction for heavier defect removal.
Goes well with:
Restore your car's paint job to its former glory! It'll be like looking in a mirror.
(Prices vary based on vehicle's paint status)
What's included?
Goes well with:
A foam bath followed by a contact wash eliminates simple contaminants such as dust, dirt, grime and traffic film. A very important first step.
An essential process at it removes any stubborn contaminants like iron particles, tree sap or industrial fallout that are embedded in the clear coat.
A chemical decontamination with Iron Remover is then followed up with a mechanical decontamination with a perforated synthetic clay towel, ensuring your paint is smoother than a baby's bottom.
An essential process during multi-stage paint correction. A coarser wool pad is used to abrade the clear coat around defects until it's flush and no longer visible to the human eye.
The cutting stage ensures uniformity, critical prep before a polish when concerned about heavier defects.
Working in small sections, the compound is worked into the paint, ensuring the surface is not only clean, but free of microscopic imperfections or irregularities. The product will then be buffed off with a damp microfibre towel, then again with a dry towel, ensuring majority of the excess residue is removed.
A polish brings dull, faded paint back to life, leaving your car shining brighter than the sun.
It's the refinement stage after the cutting compound to level the surface at a microscopic level, ensuring it's as smooth as can be.
The process is the same as the cutting stage, simply using a finer foam pad to work the product in, before buffing it off.
Paint correction of course, consists of many different methods and techniques, usually requiring slightly different products and tools to achieve a different result.
A 1-step polish focuses primarily on gloss enhancement, perhaps addressing some minor defects. It makes your car pop, look brand new, but won't take care of the scratches and swirls.
A 2-Step Polish on the other hand, utilises a coarser agent, either compound or pad (or both), prior to the polish. This cuts deeper into the clear coat, taking care of deeper swirls and scratches due to its increased abrasiveness and aggression. It restores and rejuvinates your car.
1-Step-Polish:
2-Step Polish:
Don't get me wrong, both are effective methods that completely transform your car's appearance!
What you get depends on what problems you want to address, and how much you care about your car's value and appearance.
Think about it, really think about the process and what I'm actually doing to your car. I'm taking a slightly abrasive pad and gliding it across your car at a high RPM. What do you think would happen if the surface wasn't clean and decontaminated? What do you think would happen to your car if there was still an abundance of iron particles, bug guts or hardened tree sap?
Without paint preparation, the contaminants would simply scratch your car as it's polished, the rotating pad would be working them into the clear coat, marring it as it went. That doesn't sound good, does it?
Therefore, It's imperative the surface is not only cleaned, but decontaminated prior to paint correction. Even though your paint will seem smooth after this, it won't be at a microscopic level. That's why we polish. To ensure your paintjob is restored to the way it used to be.
Polishing ensures the surface is smooth and uniform, free from irregularities, while giving you extreme, everlasting gloss. Your car will be completely transformed.
So there's no rush, no need to get stressed out because it's been hours and the vehicle hasn't even seen any polish. Don't worry, the meticulous process ensures your car gets the love it deserves, and I leave knowing I've done my due diligence, knowing you're fully satisfied with your vehicle's shine.
It doesn't matter how strong you are, how big your arms are, how much force you're putting on the machine, you won't come close to penetrating the clear coat and risk damaging the raw paint.
Clear coats are usually 3.5-5.5 mils and will require you to sit on one spot with full force for over 10 minutes to actually burn through to the paint.
The edges of panels, yes of course, have less coating and therefore are thinner and easier to penetrate, but majority of the vehicle will have a thick enough clear coat.
Does this mean it's invincible? No of course, not. The only thing that's invincible is your teenage child.
You still have to use your brain, this doesn't mean you can polish however you want. You do it wrong and you will ruin your paint job. This is why you must take the time to learn the proper technique, understand the requirements, the risks and limitations, and then proceed to learn the skill. You do that, and it'll be easier than breathing.
You learn the correct technique, and no, it isn't dangerous at all. It's actually very therapeutic. If you're smart and sensible, paint correction can be an extremely safe procedure.
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